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| Scroll down for Hadley's Cauliflower, Pea Tendril and Pistachio Risotto. And BROWNIES. |
The "GF" word.
A few months after we opened, Hadley was diagnosed with Celiac. Devastated, she went gluten free for two years, eliminating wheat from her diet and keeping a close eye on how she felt. Hadley's kitchen became a lab- dozens of bags of various flours, gums and stabilizers, all in the name of recreating the favorites she'd been missing. The chewy loaf. Fudgy brownies. Texture.
Here's the rub: it didn't take long to uncover that those ingredients used commercially to recreate what gluten does are just as harmful to digest as gluten. Not to mention the fact that xantham gum is produced from corn-based sugar. Not part of our culinary aesthetic. After investigating a tailspin of blogs, misinformation and science, Hadley went a different route entirely and began experimenting with a completely grain-free diet. That meant no rice (or rice flour) or buckwheat, no oats or legumes but so much more. It's been inspiring watching the evolution of baking through Hadley's eyes. Instead of focusing on replacing wheat with stabilizers and gums, she's recreated the soul of her Southern roots by using what's available. No palm oil, no syrups. Just coconut and nut flours and delicious ingredients from the farmers market. The results have been mind-blowing. Cookies and brownies to die for, risotto and stir-fries that leave you satisfied but not starchy (see recipe below) and a focus on sweet instead of sugary for baked goods.
Let's back up for a moment and discuss what gluten is. To start with, it's important to understand that wheat is the backbone of civilization. It is the world's largest source of protein and is nutrient rich. How we consume wheat is a different story, as is how we've hybridized it over the last 60 years. Gluten is a protein found in the starchy endosperm (the 'meat' of the wheat berry) of a kernel of wheat, barley or rye. Dormant when dry, these proteins become activated when moisture and movement are introduced (mixing and kneading). The gluten proteins begin to create links- think of a paper link chain- and get tighter and tighter as you work with the dough (overworked muffin batter = hockey puck muffins), which creates structure in your foods.
So how does digestion of gluten work into all of this? For Celiacs, the danger is that consumption of gluten damages the intestine, making the body unable to absorb other nutrients. What of others who have sensitivity to gluten, but not Celiac? Much of it can be traced to wheat varieties that are hybridized to produce far more gluten than in the past (to facilitate large-scale bread making) and the loss of slow-fermented breads, or true sourdoughs, which have enzymes that aid in digestion. But that's for another email entirely.
The larger conversation is greater than the wheat vs. no-wheat discussion. It's really about how we consume all our food. It's about finding out what makes you feel better. Take stock of how you feel 30 minutes after a meal and listen to your body. Notice that whole foods, those dishes you prepare from unprocessed ingredients, make you feel fuller faster and satisfied long after you've eaten. It's better for your wallet, our local economy and, more importantly, your palate. That's been the greater, more delicious awakening.
Pea Tendril and Pistachio Risotto
Pesto:
2 cloves garlic
1/2 cup pistachio, toasted
4oz pea tendrils, plus more for garnish
Juice of 1 lemon
1/4 cup olive oil
salt and pepper
1. Pulse garlic and pistachios until a fine meal forms in a food processor.
2. Add pea tendrils and lemon juice and run until smooth.
3. While the food processor is running add olive oil in a steady stream until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste.
1 medium head (about 1 lb.) of cauliflower
1 tbsp olive oil
1 cup vegetable broth
1. In a food processor or with a box grater, grate the cauliflower until it looks like rice.
2. In a medium pot, heat the olive oil. Add cauliflower and sauté for 5 minutes until softened.
3. Add 1 cup of vegetable stock, a little at a time until completely absorbed.
Remove from heat and stir in 1/2 cup pesto or more to taste.
4. Garnish with additional pea tendrils and sprinkle with parmesan if dairy is tolerated.
Classic Brownies
Prepare a 8x8" square pan by lining it with parchment paper. To make a 13x9" batch, simply double or triple this recipe, depending on how thick you want your brownies, and increase the baking time to 40 minutes.
In a medium pot, melt:
1 stick butter or 4oz coconut oil
In a small bowl combine:
1/2 lb. (8 ounces) chocolate, semi sweet or bittersweet
1 cup coconut sugar
Set aside:
3 eggs
In a separate bowl:
1/2 cup coconut flour(2 oz)
2 Tbsps cocoa powder
1/4 tsp salt
1. In a medium saucepot, melt your butter. Remove from heat and add in the sugar and chocolate, stirring until smooth.
3. Whisk in the eggs until well incorporated.
4. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, salt and cocoa powder.
5. Using a wooden spoon, stir the dry ingredients in the chocolate mixture until just combined.
6. Pour your batter into your pan lined with parchment paper and bake at 350˚ for 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature.
Don't hesitate to use us as a resource- you can call the desk anytime from 11am-8pm with your questions about substitutions. Email us to find out how to shop at farmers markets and where and when your local ones are held.
Wishing you a delicious day,
Clémence and Hadley
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